Kreg Jig Work Center

buildsomething added on 6/14/2017

Organize your pocket-hole joinery with this rolling work center. It holds a Kreg Jig® on top, and there’s an optional fence system for the Kreg Jig K4. Plus, it has a drill holster, optional holders for Kreg cutting accessories, and storage shelves that hold a System Organizer and Screw Organizers.

Directions

Follow the steps below to complete this project.

Print Directions

Start With the Back Parts

Cut the Divider, the Back Side and the Short Back Side to size from 3/4" plywood, as shown in the cutting diagram. We chose sanded pine plywood for this project. You can learn more about choosing plywood in the how-to video below. After cutting the parts, set your pocket-hole jig for 3/4"-thick material, and then drill pocket holes on the Back Side and Short Back Side Panels at the locations shown.

How To Choose the Right Plywood

Learn how to choose the right type of plywood for your DIY and woodworking projects. There are several unique types, and it's imprtant to understand the differences to ensure you'll get the results you want.

Assemble the Divider and Back Sides

Position the Back Side on the face of the Divider that does NOT have pocket holes, as shown, so that the Divider sits flush with one edge of the Divider and the ends of the parts are flush. Secure the Back Side using 1 1/4" coarse-thread pocket-hole screws as shown. Next, position the Short Back Side flush with the other edge of the Divider, and even with the upper end, as shown. Secure the Back Side using 1 1/4" coarse-thread pocket-hole screws.

How To Choose the Correct Kreg Screw

Learn how to choose the correct Kreg Screw for your project based on the material you are using and where you'll place the project—indoors or outdoors.

Cut the Top Panel

Cut the Top to size from 3/4" sanded pine plywood as shown in the cut list.

How To Choose the Best Saw Blade for Cutting Plywood

Learn how to choose a circular saw blade that will give you great-quality cuts in plwood and sheet goods.

Make the Back Shelves

Cut three Back Shelves to size from 3/4" plywood, as shown in the cutting diagram. Drill pocket holes in each of the shelves at the locations shown.

How To Label Project Parts for Easy Identification

Learn how to make project building easier with some simple techniques for labeling parts that will keep everything organized as you build.

Install the Top and Back Shelves

To access the pocket holes easily, follow this assembly sequence for the Top and Back Shelves. Lay the Top facedown, and then set the back/divider assembly on it so the edges of the Top sit flush, and the assembly is aligned with the end of the Top, as shown. Now attach it to the Back Side, the Short Back Side, and the Divider to the Top using 1 1/4" coarse-thread pocket-hole screws. Next, position the first Back Shelf closest to the Top, as shown, and secure it with 1 1/4" coarse-thread pocket-hole screws.

Make the Side Shelf

Now, cut a single Side Shelf to size from 3/4" plywood, and then drill pocket holes where shown.

How To Set Up a Kreg Jig in Three Simple Steps

Learn how easy it is to set up a Kreg Jig^® and ensure that you'll drill pocket holes accurately every time.

Install the Side Shelf

At the location shown, secure the Side Shelf to the Back Side and the Divider using 1 1/4" coarse-thread pocket-hole screws. Note that there will be a 3/4" gap on one edge of the Side Shelf. That allows space to install the Back, which you’ll make next.

Make the Back

Cut the Back to size from 3/4" plywood, as shown in the cutting diagram. Drill pocket holes where shown.

Attach the Back

At the location shown, secure the Back to the Side Shelf, the Back Side and to the lowest Back Shelf using 1 1/4" coarse-thread pocket-hole screws.

Make the Front Sides

Cut two Front Sides to size from 3/4" plywood, as shown in the cutting diagram. Drill pocket holes at the locations shown.

Attach the Front Sides

Set the Front Sides in place and screw them to the Divider and Top panels using 1 1/4" coarse-thread pocket-hole screws.

Make a Bottom and Front Shelves

Cut the Bottom to size from 3/4" sanded pine plywood as shown in the cultist. Next, cut three Front Shelves to size from the same material, as shown. Drill pocket holes on each Front Shelf at the locations shown.

Add the Front Selves and the Bottom

Set the Bottom in place so that the edges are flush with the Sides and Back. Secure it in place using 1 1/4" coarse-thread pocket-hole screws. Next, position each Front Shelf, as shown, starting with the one nearest the Top, and then secure each Front Shelf in turn using 1 1/4" coarse-thread pocket-hole screws.

Add the Casters and a Finish

To complete the main work center, position the casters, as shown and then attach them. Use “dual-locking” casters, which lock both the roll and swivel functions, so that the work center will stay put while you’re working, but be easy to move when you’re done. Secure the casters to the Bottom using #10 x 3/4" pan-head wood screws. After that, sand any sharp or rough edges of the plywood panels. Since this is a utility project, it doesn’t necessarily need a finish. However, we chose to wipe on a simple oil finish to protect it from dirt, and to give the work center a little color. Now, you can add custom touches to your work center, if desired.

Check Out the Storage Accessories

We added a few accessories to make the work center even handier for pocket-hole joinery. One is a fence system that works with the Kreg Jig® K4 shown in the photos. The fences provide wide supports for long pieces or large panels. They’re made from 1x material plus 1/4 hardboard spacers to achieve the right height. And of course, there’s an on-board storage system. (If you have the Kreg Jig K5 model, it has built-in wigs, so you won’t need the fence system.) You can also make a drill holster. Finally, we added two holders for a couple of Kreg Cutting Solutions: the Rip-Cut™ and the Accu-Cut. If you have either or both of these cutting tools, you can add the on-board holders for them.

Make the Fence Parts

Cut four Fence pieces from 1x4 boards as shown in the cut list. Make sure your pocket-hole jig is set for 3/4" material, and then drill pocket holes on just two of the boards at the locations shown.

Assemble the Fences

Secure two Fence Boards together (one board with pocket holes and one without) using 1 1/4" coarse-thread pocket-hole screws as shown.

Make the Fence Guides

Using 1/4" hardboard, cut two Fence Guides, two Front Guide Spacers, and two Back Guide Spacers to size, as shown in the cutting diagram.

Attach the Fence Guides

Glue and Clamp the Fence Guides to the bottom of each Fence as shown. Note that Guide location determines a left and right Fence.

Make the Fence Cleats

Cut two Front Fence Cleats from a 1x3 board and two Back Fence Cleats from a 1x4 board as shown in the cut list. Drill pilot holes at the locations shown.

Assemble the Fence Cleats

Glue and clamp the Front Guide Spacer to the each of the Front Guide Cleats as shown. Make sure the edges are flush on three sides. Repeat the process for the Back Guide Cleats and Spacers.

Attach the Front Cleats to the Case

Apply glue to the underside of each Front Guide Spacer and then set these assemblies in place as shown. Make sure that your Kreg Jig fits between them. Clamp the assemblies in position while you drive four 1 1/2" flat-head wood screws through the Cleats and into the Top.

Add the Back Fence Cleats

Set the two Fences in place with the Guides positioned under the front guides, as shown. Add glue to the bottom of the Back Fence Cleats and position them on the other side of the Fence as shown. Apply glue to the underside of the Back Spacers, and position each cleat assembly on the Top, as shown. Use a couple of dimes as spacers to make room for the fences to easily slide in and out. Clamp the Cleats in place and attach them with four 1 1/2" flat-head wood screws. After attaching the guides, if the fences are difficult to slide in place, lightly sand the underside of the Fence Guides and then apply some paste wax to help them slide.

Make the Fence Storage Parts

When the Fences are not in use, they can be stored on the side of the work center. From a 1x3 board, cut two Fence Storage Sides, one Fence Storage Bottom and one Fence Storage Stop, as shown in the cutting diagram. Drill pocket holes where shown.

Assemble the Fence Bracket

Assemble the fence storage bracket as shown using 1 1/4" coarse-thread pocket-hole screws. When the assembly is complete attach it to one of the Front Sides at the location shown using 1 1/4" coarse-thread pocket-hole screws.

Attach the Fence Bracket

When the assembly is complete attach it to one of the Front Sides at the location shown using 1 1/4" coarse-thread pocket-hole screws.

Make the Drill Holster Parts

Cut one Holster Arm, two Holster Spacers, and one Holster Side from a 1x3 board, as shown in the cutting diagram. Drill pilot holes in the Hanger Arm at the locations shown.

Assemble the Holster

Apply glue to the two Holster Spacers and apply them to the Holster Arm at the location shown. Next, apply glue to the Holster Side and position it on the Spacers. Align the assembly, clamp it together and let the glue dry. Add a few nails for extra holding power, if desired.

Install the Holster

When the glue dries, position the Holster as shown, under the Top, and then attach it using four 1 1/4" flat-head wood screws. Lightly sand any sharp edges as needed.

Make the Rip-Cut™ Cleats

If you have a Kreg Rip-Cut™ Circular Saw Guide, you can store it onboard, as well. Cut two Hanger Cleats, and two Hanger Spacers from a 1x3 board, as shown in the cutting diagram. Glue and clamp the Hanger to the Spacer as shown. After the glue dries, drill pilot holes through the Hanger and Spacer at the locations shown.

Attach the Cleats

After the glue is dried, Hold the first hanger assembly at the location shown, and then secure it to the Front Side using two 2" flat-head wood screws. Repeat the process for the second bracket.

Cut the Storage Slot Parts

Finally, if you have a Kreg Accu-Cut™, you can make a storage slot for it. Cut two Slot Sides, one Slot Bottom and two Slot Guides to length from a 1x3 board, as shown in the cutting diagram. Drill pocket holes in all of the parts at the locations shown.

Assemble and Mount the Storage Slot

Assemble the storage slot, as shown, using 1 1/4" coarse-thread pocket-hole screws. Position the Slot on the work center at the location shown, and then secure it with 1 1/4" coarse-thread pocket screws, as well.

Materials Required:

Wood Products:

(1) 3/4" Thick, Full Sheet, Plywood
(1) 3/4" Thick, Half Sheet, Plywood
(1) 1/4" Thick, 24" x 24", Hardboard
(3) 1x3, 48", Board
(1) 1x4, 48", Board
(1) 1x4, 72", Board

Hardware/Supplies:

Parts/Cut List:

(1) Divider, 3/4" x 20" x 30" pine ply
(1) Back Side, 3/4" x 14 3/4" x 30" pine ply
(1) Short Back Side, 3/4" x 10 1/2" x 14 3/4" pine ply
(1) Top, 3/4" x 20" x 30" pine ply
(3) Back Shelf, 3/4" x 14 3/4" x 18 1/2" pine ply
(1) Side Shelf, 3/4" x 14" x 19 1/4" pine ply
(1) Back, 3/4" x 19 1/4" x 19 1/2" pine ply
(2) Front Side, 3/4" x 12 1/2" x 30" pine ply
(3) Front Shelf, 3/4" x 12 1/2" x 18 1/2" pine ply
(1) Bottom, 3/4" x 20" x 28" pine ply
(4) Fence, 3/4" x 3 1/2" x 23 3/4" pine board
(2) Fence Guide, 1/4" x 5 1/4" x 8 1/2" hardboard
(2) Front Guide Cleat, 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 8 3/8" pine board
(2) Front Guide Spacer, 1/4" x 2" x 8 3/8" hardboard
(2) Back Guide Cleat, 3/4" x 3 1/2" x 8 3/8" pine board
(2) Back Guide Spacer, 1/4" x 3" x 8 3/8" hardboard
(1) Fence Storage Stop, 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 7 3/4" pine board
(2) Fence Storage Side, 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 6" pine board
(1) Fence Storage Bottom, 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 9 1/4" pine board
(1) Drill Holster Arm, 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 10" pine board
(2) Drill Holster Spacer, 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 2 1/4" pine board
(1) Drill Holster Side, 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 3 3/4" pine board
(2) Hanger Cleat, 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" pine board
(2) Hanger Cleat Spacer, 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 1 1/4" pine board
(2) Slot Side, 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 23 3/4" pine board
(2) Slot Guide, 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 5 1/2" pine board
(1) Slot Bottom, 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 5 1/2" pine board

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Reviews:

June 29, 2018

Kreg Jig wirk center - Any chance that the plans will be modified shortly to fit the K5?

- michel.picard@evoqua.com
July 23, 2017

One small issue, but fixable! - This plan as it's designed will not support a K5 jig without slight modifications like using layers of fiberboard (it's higher) but it will support th… see full review

- dsgood78

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Kreg Jig Work Center

Directions

Start With the Back Parts

How To Choose the Right Plywood

Assemble the Divider and Back Sides

How To Choose the Correct Kreg Screw

Cut the Top Panel

How To Choose the Best Saw Blade for Cutting Plywood

Make the Back Shelves

How To Label Project Parts for Easy Identification

Install the Top and Back Shelves

Make the Side Shelf

How To Set Up a Kreg Jig in Three Simple Steps

Install the Side Shelf

Make the Back

Attach the Back

Make the Front Sides

Attach the Front Sides

Make a Bottom and Front Shelves

Add the Front Selves and the Bottom

Add the Casters and a Finish

Check Out the Storage Accessories

Make the Fence Parts

Assemble the Fences

Make the Fence Guides

Attach the Fence Guides

Make the Fence Cleats

Assemble the Fence Cleats

Attach the Front Cleats to the Case

Add the Back Fence Cleats

Make the Fence Storage Parts

Assemble the Fence Bracket

Attach the Fence Bracket

Make the Drill Holster Parts

Assemble the Holster

Install the Holster

Make the Rip-Cut™ Cleats

Attach the Cleats

Cut the Storage Slot Parts

Assemble and Mount the Storage Slot

Tools Used:

Materials Required:

Parts/Cut List:

Extras:

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