Adirondack Chair

buildsomething added on 10/15/2015

Just about everybody recognizes the classic lines of an Adirondack chair, and would like to have one or two somewhere in their outdoor living space. And why not? These chairs look great and are very comfortable. As you’ll find out with this plan, an Adirondack chair is also easy to build.

Directions

Follow the steps below to complete this project.

Print Directions

Get To Know Your Materials

The first step, of course, is to get the materials for your project. We used cedar 1x6s. The thickness of cedar boards can vary. Many stores sell cedar that is 7/8" thick. Check your material thickness. If it’s 7/8", you'll be fine using the 1 1/2"-long pocket holes screws and jig settings recommended here. Some stores, though, sell cedar that is thinner. If your material is actually 3/4"- or 11/16" thick, you'll want to substitute 1 1/4"-long screws, and set up your pocket hole jig for 3/4"-thick material. Also, cedar usually has one rough face and one smooth face, so be sure when you lay out and make your parts that you have the rough face on the inside or underside.

Create the Back Legs

Cut two Back Legs to length from a 1x6 board, as shown in the cutting diagram. Then lay out the radius shown on each Back Leg using compass, and cut it with a jig saw. Then sand the cut ends smooth.

Create the Front Legs

Cut two Front Legs to length from 1x4 boards, as shown in the cutting diagram. Then lay out the radius shown on each Front Leg using compass, and cut it with a jig saw. Then sand the cut ends smooth.

Assemble the Legs

Now you can attach the Front Legs to the Back Legs. Be sure you have smooth faces outward. It helps to use a scrap board as a straightedge to align the parts, as shown. Once you have each legs in position, attach them by driving four 1 1/2" exterior screws through each Back Leg and into each Front Leg.

Create the Front Apron

Cut one Front Apron to length from a 1x6 board, as shown in the cutting diagram. Then, with your pocket hole jig set for 7/8" material (see step 1), drill pocket holes in the rough face of the Front Apron where shown.

Attach the Front Apron

Attach the Front Apron to one leg assembly at the location shown using 1 1/2" exterior pocket hole screws.

Add the Second Leg Assembly

Add the second Leg Assembly, making sure it’s aligned with the Front Apron in the same way.

Create the Seat Slats

Cut one Front Seat Slat to length from a 1x3 cedar board, as shown in the cutting diagram. While you’re at it, cut eight Seat Slats, as well. Next you need to drill pocket holes in ONLY the Front Seat Slat. So, with your pocket hole jig set for 7/8" material, drill pocket holes in the underside of the Front Slat where shown.

Attach the Front Seat Slat

Attach the Front Seat Slat to the Front Apron and the Front Legs using 1 1/2" exterior pocket hole screws, as shown.

Add Four Seat Slats

Now you can add the first four regular Seat Slats. Position them so one rests against the Front Leg, as shown, and the others are spaced 1/4" apart. Attach these Seat Slats to the Back Legs using 2" exterior nails.

Create the Seat Sides

Cut two Seat Sides to length from a 1x6 board, as shown in the cutting diagram. With your pocket hole jig set for 7/8" material, drill pocket holes in the rough face of each Seat Side where shown.

Attach the Seat Sides

Now you can attach the Seat Sides. The location of each Seat Side is determined by placing the square end against the Front Leg, and then moving the Seat Side up until it touches the last one of the four Seat Slats that you already installed. Once the Seat Side is in position, clamp it in place while you secure it to the Front Leg with 1 1/2" exterior pocket hole screws. Then secure it to the Back Leg using 1 1/2" exterior screws.

Create the Back Parts

Cut four Back Slats to length, as shown in the cutting diagram. Then cut the Upper, Middle, and Lower Back Supports to length, as well. With your pocket hole jig set for 7/8" material, drill pocket holes in the rough face of the Middle Back Support and Lower Back Support where shown.

Assemble the Back

Assemble the Back Slats and the Back Supports as shown using 1 1/2" exterior wood screws. Use 4 Screws at each Slat and Support location.

Add the Radius to the Back Slats

Clamp a scrap board to the back assembly at the location shown and set a nail at the center of the board. Use a string and a pencil to mark the radius on the top end of the Back Slats. Remove the scrap board and cut the radius using a jig saw. Then sand the cut ends smooth.

Install the Back

Attach the back assembly to the seat sides with 1 1/2" exterior pocket hole screws. Add a clamp to help keep the back assembly in place while you screw it in place.

Create the Arm Rails

Cut the arm rails to length, as shown in the cutting diagram. With your pocket hole jig set for 7/8" material, drill pocket holes where shown.

Attach the Arm Rails

Secure the Arm Rails to the Front Legs and the Middle Back Support with 1 1/2" pocket hole screws.

Attach the Remaining Seat Slats

Now attach the last four Seat Slats. Space them 1/4" apart, and then nail them to the Seat Sides using 2" exterior nails.

Create the Arm Braces

Cut the Arm Brace to length and Cut the radius as shown. Drill a pocket hole in each Arm Brace where shown.

Install the Arm Braces

Now you can attach the Arm Braces to the Front Legs. You’ll need to position the Braces, and then drive 1 1/2" exterior screws through each Front Leg and into each Brace.

Create the Arms

Cut two Arms to length, as shown in the cutting diagram. Lay out the radius on each end of the Arms. Cut the radius with a jigsaw and sand the cut ends smooth.

Attach the Arms

Position the Arms as shown, and then attach them using 1 1/2" pocket hole screws. With that, you can do any final sanding needed, and then stain your chair. For ours, we used a solid-color deck stain.

Parts/Cut List:

(2) Front Legs, 7/8" x 3 1/2" x 23 1/2"
(2) Back Legs, 7/8" x 5 1/2" x 42 1/2"
(2) Seat Sides, 7/8" x 5 1/2" x 23 1/2"
(1) Front Apron, 7/8" x 5 1/2" x 26"
(1) Front Seat Slat, 7/8" x 2 1/2" x 26"
(8) Seat Slats, 7/8" x 2 1/2" x 29 1/2"
(4) Back Slats, 7/8" x 5 1/2" x 38"
(1) Upper Back Support, 7/8" x 3 1/2" x 23 1/2"
(1) Middle Back Support, 7/8" x 3 1/2" x 26"
(1) Lower Back Support, 7/8" x 5 1/2" x 26"
(2) Arm Rails, 7/8" x 3 1/2" x 26 1/2"
(2) Arm Braces, 7/8" x 2 1/2" x 3 1/2"
(2) Arms, 7/8" x 5 1/2" x 34 1/4"

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Reviews:

August 20, 2019

tubadoug - The plans are wrong and the chair is way too big. Don't use pocket screws...too complicated for a beginner. #8 Create the Seat Slats is wrong. It s… see full review

- tubadoug7@gmail.com
May 23, 2019

Poor hardware usage - After building this, my neighbor who is a carpenter came over to inspect the chair. He loved the look of it, but noticed a ton of very weak spots wher… see full review

- wos314
October 16, 2017

Love it! - I built this a while back and never got around to given it a review. I love the size and so does the wife. It's large enough for a person to curl up … see full review

- timothy.gann.1@gmail.com
August 4, 2017

Too large - This a very strong chair, but far too large for an average person. The seat is much too deep deep making uncomfortable.

- happy dancer
June 2, 2017

My first build ever... - I printed out the instructions, followed the cutting diagram and carefully followed each step. I had to purchase a Kreg pocket hold jig and two good c… see full review

- sunny844
April 29, 2016

Super Easy , NICE - Great chair , easy to read plans ,, and pretty comfy also ,,, now I need a nice simple Table to match these chairs , something that would fit nicely i… see full review

- thunder