X Console table

 Read Reviews (1)

wmled1 added on 7/25/2017

This X console table can be built many sizes. Longer than 48" would probably require a 3rd leg in the middle. This isn't my original design, but my take on it and how I build it. I've built many this way. I planed my lumber to 1.25" but you could use 1.5" as well, modifying the measurements.


Follow the steps below to complete this project.


cut table top

After planing the lumber to 1.25" (optional) I cut 3 boards to 50" (I will cut down to 48" after the boards are glued together) and ripped two to 4.75" and one to 4.5".


Mark biscuit slots in table top

line up the boards as you see fit, and make marks across the boards at 6-10" intervals to center the biscuit on. Since its a biscuit joint and you over cut the top boards, it's ok if they aren't 100% accurate.


Cut Biscuits slots in table top

Secure your board to your bench top and cut biscuit slots.


Apply tape to table top

To help with glue control, I line up my boards and apply tape on the edge of the boards where I will be gluing.


Apply glue to table top

I make a zig zag pattern as I apply glue for better coverage.


Spread glue

I use a spatula to spread the glue out for better coverage


Clamping the top together

After inserting biscuits, I clamp the top together, tightening until I see the squeeze out.


Remove the tape

I remove the tape very soon after the glue up, so It doesn't get glued to the board. After 20 minutes or so, I set the top to the side.


Cut legs

After planing to 1.25" I ripped the 2x4 to 3.25", (a little more if you are going to run through joiner). then I cut the legs and the 9" braces on my miter saw. You could cut on the miter saw first of course.


Cut 2x2 material

After planing to 1.25", I saw 2 40.5" pieces of 2x6 on the miter saw. Rip them to 1.25", getting 6 1.25" x 1.25" x 40.5" pieces for the long rails. Following the same procedures, cut the short 2x2 braces and the "X" braces. You will be over cutting your X braces to ensure a better fit.


Pocket hole time.

Drill pocket holes in the ends of all the braces and rails. (except the X brace) Set to 1 1/2" lumber and 2" screws. The picture shows many more parts than you will have as I build several at a time.



Using your miter saw, cut 2 48" pieces of 1x10, then rip to 9" on table saw. After changing your pocket hole jig to 3/4" lumber and 1 1/4" screws, drill pocket holes on the bottom of your shelves.


Prepare legs

I like mark two legs at the same time, paying attention to which side is the good side. The bad side will be the inside of the leg (the side you are going to mark). I mark one leg at 4.5" and 17.25" from the bottom. The I slide the other leg next to it and use a speed square to mark both at the same time.


Attach bottom 2x4 brace

Using my right angle clamp, I connect the brace to the leg at the 4.5" mark using 2" screws.


Attach 2x2 brace

At the 17.25" mark I use my right angle clamp to attach the 2x2" brace. Then I attach the top brace in the same way, but with the pocket holes facing up.


Attaching other leg

After clamping the other leg down, flip the piece you just finished and attach the top brace first. For the middle and bottom braces, you'll need a right angle adapter for your drill. Using your right angle clamp, connect all the braces to this leg.


Build second leg

Using the method above, build the second leg.


Measure for the long X

Lay the leg on the table and align one of your 25" boards as shown and mark the underside indicating where to cut the angle.


Cutting the obtuse angle

The angle will be greater than 45 degrees. I use this simple jig to get that angle. After I align the jig at 90 degrees (0), I manually match the angle on my board and cut. It may take two cuts.


Check fit of the X, cut another

Fit the long X in the box to test the fit, then test fit it for the other angle on the box. If that long X is a good fit in both, then cut another just like it. If not, use step 18 to measure and cut this one.


Measure for the short X

With both long X pieces installed as in the picture, mark for your short X pieces.


Marks for short X

The marks for the short X will look like this.


Aligning the X

After cutting the short X's on the miter saw, reassemble in the box of the leg using some scrap to hold the legs in place. After aligning the X like you want, mark where the short X meets the long X in the obtuse angle. (Where the sharp point of the short X meets the long X) then number on top so you can align them correctly.


Attaching the 1st short X

Clamp the long X down then after applying glue to the short X, align the short X (matching your numbers correctly) with the mark on the long X, clamp and nail with 2" brad nails from the other side of long X


Attaching the 2nd short X

After applying glue to the end of the short X, align the piece with the mark made earlier, then nail as shown.


Attaching the X part 1

Place your completed X in the middle of the leg. Align the corners, and pop a 2" brad nail in the center, attaching to the middle brace.


Attaching the X part 2

Allow a .75" inset on each corner and nail a 2" brad nail.


Completed leg with X

Ta DA! Now make another one!


Attach the long rails part 1

Start with the top of the leg attaching the 40.5" rails to the inside of the leg with 2" screws. Face the pocket holes up.


Attach the long rails part 2

When I add the middle and bottom long rails, I use my speed square and a clamp to line up the top of the shelf with my long rail. Then attach the long rails with 2" screws.


Attach shelves

I use several clamps to align and attach the shelves. Be sure to connect the short end of the board first. Use 3/4" screws.


Attach to other leg

Use the same method as above, attached the assembled leg to the other leg.


Top braces

I didn't mention the braces in the cut sheet as I use scrap wood for this. Any .75" material will do. Cut them at 9", spaced as you see fit. Then attach to the top. This will give the top something to attach to.


Attach the top

Before you attach the top, be sure to cut it down to the size you want. You can attach the top two ways, upside down, or right side up. I prefer working on my bench so after applying glue to the top of the table frame, I flip the base over on the table top and attach with 2" and 1 1/4" screws. Align the top with the base as you like.


Sand and finish

Sand and finish!

Tools Used:

Materials Required:

Wood Products:

(3) 2x6, 120", Board  
(2) 2x4, 120", Board  
(1) 1x10, 96", Board  


(100) Kreg 1 1/4 coarse screws  

Parts/Cut List:

(2) top , 1.25x 4.75 x 48  
(1) top small, 1.25 x 4.5 x 48  
(4) leg, 1.25 x 3.25 x 30.75  
(6) long rail, 1.25 x 1.25 x 40 .5  
(4) 2x4 brace, 1.25 x 3.25 x 9  
(2) 2x2 brace, 1.25 x 1.25 x 9  
(4) X brace, 1.25 x 1.25 x 25  
(2) shelves, .75 x 9 x 40.5  


x console table 48x 14 x 32.pdf Download


You must log in to add comments


    Become a Member


    • Connect with the BuildSomething Community
    • See what others build and share your stories


    • Find inspiring ideas for your projects you can build
    • Get the step-by-step plans you need to succeed


    • Turn your projects into professional-looking plans
    • Share your plans you create on buildsomething.com



    Already a member?
    Sign in!

    Kreg Tool