Simple Farm Table

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wmled1 added on 8/23/2016

This is a simple farm table with breadboards built with 2x and 1x material. I used a planer, joiner, table saw, miter saw, circular saw, dowel jig, hand drills, and a Kreg jig. You don't have to have all these to build the table. I planed my 4x4 to 3.25" and my 2x's to 1.25".

Directions

Follow the steps below to complete this project.

1

cut legs

Cut your legs to 31" and plane to 3 1/4" x 3 1/4". You could leave them at 3 1/2"x 3 1/2" and adjust all other dimension in your cut list accordingly

2

cut the skirt

rip your 1x4 material to 3" (or leave it at 3 1/2" but change all dimensions accordingly). Cut 2 outside long skirts at 79", 2 inside long skirts at 77 1/2", two outside short skirts at 33 3/4", and 2 inside short skirts at 32 1/4". Drill pocket holes on the ends of the long boards for the inside skirt only

3

cut table top boards

I planed down my 2x material to 1 1/4". This gives me very smooth boards and is a big advantage when trying to get the top even and smooth. It also takes away a lot of sanding. However, you may want to go with the a rougher look and just use them as is. Or you may round over the edges after planing to give it a "plank" look vs smooth, butcher block style. After planing the lumber, I cut to length. In this case the final length for my long boards is to be 70 1/2". I cut a couple inches longer. This gives me a little breathing room in the final dimension (if I have breadboard issues), and allows my to have a perfect end for my breadboards after the final cuts are made with the circular saw. Cut the breadboards a couple inches long as well

4

assemble inner skirt

Use your inside skirt material to make a rectangle.

5

attach legs

You will be building the base upside down, so be sure to have a flat surface to build on. Screw the table legs to the inside corners of the inner rectangle with 2 1/2" screws coming from the outside of the board into the leg. (the outer rectangle will cover them up). You may need to countersink the hole so the outer rectangle will fit good.

6

brace legs

Miter a 45 degree angle on one end of each leg brace and pocket hole the other end. (see diagram). Use the pocket holes and glue to attach the brace to the inner rectangle, joining the mitered ends together with glue. Use 2 1/2" screws through the braces to the legs.

7

assemble outer skirt

Assemble the outer skirt by gluing and clamping the outside long skirt boards to the inner skirt. After being sure the ends of the skirt align with the end of the inner skirt, attach to the inner skirt with 1 1/4 screws from the inside of the inner skirt into the outer skirt. Do the same with the short outside skirt boards. No screws should be visible from the outer skirt

8

braces and supports

After taking a final measurement for your braces, drill pocket hole screws in each end. Use pocket hole screws to connect all bracing and supports as shown in the picture. exact spacing between boards isn't important. Use any scrap 1x material for the breadboard support

9

top assembly part 1

After flipping your now completed base, lay the boards out on top and find which side you will be using for the top and mark for pocket hole screw locations. I use a Kreg Foreman with HD bit for this material, so I mark the top of the board. Keep in mind you'll be cutting off the last 1 1/2" or so.

10

top assembly part 2

After using my jointer to get the correct width, I then line up two boards on one end perfectly. I don't plan to cut this end off if all goes well. The other end doesn't matter as it will be cut off. I used clamps and HD screws to connect the boards together. First, do two boards as shown in the picture. I always reach under to verify the seam is perfect on the top of the table. Sometimes a little bump with the hammer is needed.

11

top assembly part 3

Do the same with boards on the other side of the table

12

top assembly part 4

My clamps just reached so i could use the same process to attach one set of two boards to the middle board. I don't have clamps long enough to reach from one side of the table to the other, so I have to improvise and do my best manually to join the last two pieces together.

13

top assembly part 5

After jointing the breadboards, I lay them beside each other and measure the total distance. I then subtract that from the total length of the table and cut my table top to length using a circular saw and straight edge

14

breadboard

After cutting the breadboards to length, I use dowels to attach the breadboard. I have a TASK jig that works wonderfully for this. I have found using dowels allows the breadboard to contract/expand, but not warp. In this case it has support under it so stability isn't compromised.

15

attach top

After aligning the top with the base, attach with 1 1/4" screws from the bottom of the table. Connecting through the flat braces into the table top.

16

sanding

Sand the top with at least 5 increasing grits of sandpaper with your ROS. Sand the legs with 80 grit as well as the skirt if desired.

17

leg note

You can easily substitute round legs for the square ones

Tools Used:

Materials Required:

Wood Products:

(2) 4x4, 96", Board  
(10) 1x4, 96", Board  
(5) 2x10, 96", Board  
(1) 2x12, 96", Board  

Hardware/Supplies:

Parts/Cut List:

(2) long outside skirt, 3" x 3/4" x79"  
(4) legs, 3 1/4" x 3 1/4" x 31"  
(2) long inside skirt, 3" x 3/4" x 77 1/2"  
(2) outside short skirt, 3" x 3/4" x 33 3/4"  
(2) inside short skirt, 3" x 3/4" x 32 1/4"  
(11) braces, 3" x 3/4" x 33 3/4"  
(2) support, 3 1/2" x 3/4" x 22 1/4"  
(8) leg braces, 3" x 3/4" x 4 1/4"  
(4) 7 1/4" top board, 1 1/4" x 7 1/4" x 72 1/2" (rough)  
(1) 9 1/4" top board, 1 1/4" x 9 1/4" x 72 1/2" (rough)  
(2) breadboards, 1 1/4"x 7 1/4" x 38 1/4"  

Extras:

No extra details have been uploaded.  

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    Kreg Tool