Rustic Industrial X Desk

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buildbikebrew added on 3/11/2017

This desk offers a large and roomy work space and two nice sized drawers for all your supplies. The X brace in back adds a nice touch. It can be finished in a rustic industrial fashion, farmhouse style, or even painted for a modern look.

Directions

Follow the steps below to complete this project.

1

Make Your Cuts & Drill Pocket Hole

Before beginning, cut all your boards to size and pre-drill pocket holes.

2

Build 2 Sets of Legs

For each leg, connect (2) 29" 2x4s to (2) 19" 2x4s as shown in the picture. Place bottom 19" piece flat (wide side down) with pocket holes facing the floor. Place top 19" piece vertically, as shown, with pocket holes facing interior of desk.

3

Add Back Apron

With pocket holes facing interior of desk, attach back apron to the two sets of legs, as shown.

4

Add Drawer Supports

Attach (42 1/4") 1x4 drawer support flush from interior front top left leg to interior front top right leg, as shown in drawing with pocket holes. Then attach 19" drawer supports flush from front to back, and flush with 1x4 support directly above with pocket holes. Place center 1x3 support 18 3/4" from each side to center it. Center 1x3 gets pocket screws in back and to 1x4 above it. (there is no front to attach the center support to) All shown in pic.

5

Build Drawers

For each drawer, take (2) 16 1/4" 1x2 pieces and attach with pocket holes to the 19" 1x2 pieces (as shown). Place back of drawer pocket holes facing back of desk, and front of drawer ph toward the front. (Front will be covered with drawer front. Then take 19" x 17 3/4" piece of 1/4" plywood and glue and nail to bottom of drawer. NOTE: I used ball bearing slides which call for 1/2" clearance on each side of drawer. If your slides call for a different amount, adjust drawer dimensions accordingly.

6

Attach Drawers

Using 18" drawer slides, attach drawers according to slide instructions. NOTE: I used ball bearing slides which call for 1/2" clearance on each side of drawer. If your slides call for a different amount, adjust drawer dimensions accordingly.

7

Build Tabletop

Using a tablesaw, strip off 1/4" from each side of the 2x6 boards, to create a smooth top. Attach boards one to another using pocket holes on the under side of the tabletop. ((If you choose not to, your top will be 27.5" instead of 25". You might want to extend legs same difference as well.))

8

Attach Tabletop

Using predrilled pocket holes, attach top to base by drilling pocket screws in a bit deeper than required, and then "undrilling" a tiny bit to allow for wood movement.

9

Add X Brace

Attach angled 1x3 pieces to form an x in back, starting approximately 4" up. Attach with pocket holes towards back (which can later be filled) The angles are 22.5 degrees (a common angle point on miter saws) and 41" point to point each side. Note that the piece of wood will need to be slightly longer than 41" to accommodate the angles.

10

Add Drawer Fronts

Add 18 3/4" 1x4 drawer fronts to each drawer with screws from the interior of the drawer. Add hardware to dress it up:)

Tools Used:

Materials Required:

Wood Products:

(3) 2x4, 96", Board  
(3) 2x6, 96", Board  
(1) 1x4, 96", Board  
(2) 1x3, 96", Board  
(2) 1x2, 96", Board  
(1) 1/4" Thick, Quarter Sheet, Plywood  

Hardware/Supplies:

Parts/Cut List:

(4) 2x4, 29"  
(4) 2x4, 19"  
(1) 2x4, 38 1/4"  
(5) 2x6 stripped (with tablesaw) to 5", 48"  
(2) 1x4, 18 3/4"  
(1) 1x4, 42 1/4"  
(3) 1x3, 19"  
(2) 1x3, 41" (point to point) cut at 22.5 degree angle both sides parallel  
(4) 1x2, 19"  
(4) 1x2, 16 1/4"  

Extras:

No extra details have been uploaded.  

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