Dining Room Table

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allison_sharktails added on 8/16/2016

This table is roughly 4'x6' and can seat up to 8 people. It's made exclusively out of framing lumber and is a great project for beginner level builders.


Follow the steps below to complete this project.


Step One: Assemble the Table Top

Make your cuts for the table top: 5 - 2x10 @ 53" and 2 - 2x10 @ 47.5" *Tip: Make sure you cut the 47 1/2" end pieces out of one 2x10x8s, or you will not have enough wood for the five middle planks. I also cut my end pieces last, after the middle planks were assembled, to ensure the most accurate length. Lay all of your pieces together and choose which sides you want to be on the "good" side of the table top. Mark where the pocket holes should go with a carpenter's pencil and drill 1 1/2" pocket holes using your Kreg Jig. Assemble the middle planks of the table top using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and wood glue. Attach the end pieces using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and wood glue.


Step Two: Bevel the Table Top

I chose to bevel the long sides of my table top at 45 degrees for added interest. This is not a necessary step, but can be done using a circular or table saw at this point if desired.


Step Three: Assemble the Legs

Make your cuts for the table legs: 8 - 2x4 @ 28 1/2" I chose to use 2x4s glued and screwed together rather than 4x4s for the legs to cut back on costs. 4x4s may be used if that is your preference. Glue and clamp your 2x4s together as shown and allow to dry for at least 8 hours. Do not yet screw the pieces together, you will do this later to ensure the screws are placed to be well hidden. I chose to glue my 2x4s together with the most beat-up sides facing outward. I wanted the table to have a weathered look and doing this meant I would not have to distress it later.


Step Four: Assemble the Apron

Make your cuts for the table's apron (top frame): 2 - 2x4 @ 31 1/2" and 2 - 2x4 @ 49" and 1 - 2x4 @ 34 3/8" (make this cut last after you've attached the sides to the legs to ensure a good fit) Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes into each end of your apron pieces using your Kreg Jig. At this point, you should also drill 1 1/2" pocket holes into the sides of the apron pieces so you can attach the table top to the base later. Attach each apron to the table legs as shown using 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and wood glue. Make sure the pocket holes for attaching the table top are all facing the right direction.


Step Five: Attach the Bottom Braces

Cut the bottom braces: 2 - 2x4 @ 31 1/2" Cut the bottom two braces and drill 1 1/2" pocket holes into the inside ends. Attach to the legs flush with the outer edge using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and wood glue. I attached my braces about 1 1/2" up from the bottom of the legs. At this point you should reinforce the glued legs with 2 1/2" wood screws. I placed two screws each at the inside top and bottom of each leg, where they are hidden by the apron/bottom braces. This will give added support to the glue.


Step Six: Attach the Center Brace

Cut the center brace: 1 - 2x4 @ 51 1/4" Cut the center brace to length. Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes in each end and attach to bottom braces (with pocket holes facing down) using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and wood glue. To determine the placement of the middle board, use 15 3/4" as your midpoint, and center the 2x4 accordingly (1 3/4" of your 2x4 on each side of the midpoint).


Step Seven: Attach the 2x2s

Cut the decorative 2x2s: 2 - 2x2 @ roughly 33 1/2" (measure to fit) long end to long end on a 45 degree angle Attach the 2x2s as shown using wood glue and a 2 1/2" wood screw in the top of each (this will be hidden by the table top). Drill pilot holes to prevent wood from splitting.


Finish as Desired

Fill any visible pocket holes if desired (I did not, there were only a few showing and are not noticeable after staining) and sand both the table top and base until smooth. Finish tabletop and base separately. For the table top, I used Minwax Provincial stain followed by seven coats of Minwax water based oil-modified Poly. I applied thin, even coats with a synthetic bristle brush (foam rollers and brushes cause bubbles) and sanded lightly in between each coat by hand using 400 grit sand paper. I applied only three coats of poly to the base of the table (also sanding between each coat) before bringing both pieces inside and attaching them together with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

Tools Used:

Materials Required:

Wood Products:

(2) 2x10, 96", Board  
(2) 2x10, 120", Board  
(7) 2x4, 96", Board  
(1) 2x2, 96", Board  


(250) 2 1/2" pocket hole screws  
(1) Stain  
(1) Wood glue  
(1) Clear coat/protective finish  
(1) Brushes  
(1) Sandpaper (220 grit or higher)  

Parts/Cut List:

(5) 2x10, 53"  
(2) 2x10, 47 1/2"  
(8) 2x4, 28 1/2"  
(4) 2x4, 31 1/2"  
(2) 2x4, 49"  
(1) 2x4, 34 3/8"  
(1) 2x4, 51 1/4"  
(2) 2x2, 33 1/2" at 45 degrees  


http://sharktails.ca/2016/08/14/build-75-dining-room-table-free-plans/ Visit


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