Small Garden Wheelbarrow (12/07/18 updated)

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aborack@gmail.com added on 1/17/2018

This is the baby brother/sister to my Garden Wheelbarrow and as was the case with the larger Wheelbarrow, this project was based on a compilation of internet searches for a garden wheelbarrow. As such, my daughter and I introduced modifications that suited us.

Directions

Follow the steps below to complete this project.

1

Notice -1

This document was first released in January 2018 and since that time, I have made some modifications, added a few items, and corrected some others. The weather conditions here in the Northeast (harsh winter, hot summer) influenced the Wheelbarrow such that the original coating using a combination stain & urethane didn’t hold up well. I decided during the repair process, to (1) use a marine Spar Urethane over the coating of stain, (2) the 1/4" straws inside the weep holes were not sufficient to properly drain water out of the bucket. In addition, there were some minor changes or additions to the write-up itself.

2

Notice - 2

I decided during the repair process, to: (1) use a marine Spar Urethane over the coating of stain (2) adjust the wheel so it turns (3) replace the 1/4" straws inside the weep holes with a 7/16” straw to drain better (4) add weather stripping to the wheel (5) make some minor changes or additions to the write-up and diagrams

3

Cutting & Trimming the Sides

1.Cut 2 pieces of the 1x8 to a length of 12” for the Sides (B) 2.Mark the cut lines on front of each piece to show the angle (indicated by the marking in the upper left). If you don’t have a compass, use any quart sized can of paint/varnish to guide you in marking an angle. 3.With a table/circular saw, cut a 45-degree angle from the Sides (B1 & B2) as shown by the shaded area at the bottom of the Side 4.With a jigsaw cut the rounded edge to finish the front as shown by the dashed lines on the top of the side. 5.With a table/circular saw, cut an 8-degree angle along the bottom of both Sides to allow the Sides to bow out when applied to the Base (A)

4

Building the Bucket - 1

Dry Fit & Clamp Front(D), Back (C), Sides (B1&B2), Base (A) 1.Put the 4 pieces in their place on a flat surface with the Sides (B1 & B2) resting between the Front (D), and the Back (C) 2.Place a clamp from the base of the Back (C) to the Front (D) and tighten just enough to hold Side (B1) in place 3.Place another clamp at the base of the other side and clamp the Back (C) to the Front (D) and tighten enough just to hold Side (B2) in place

5

Building the Bucket - 2

4.Now do the same with another pair of clamps along the top edges of the Back (C) to the Front (D) to further secure Sides B1 & B2) 5. Finally, take the 4 clamped pieces and place them on the Base (A) to ensure all the pieces align properly

6

Building the Bucket - 3

Installing the Sides (B1 & B2) 1.With the clamps still in place and the 4 pieces resting on the Base (A), lightly mark their position by making a light mark along the inside of the box while on the Base (A) 2.Remove the Sides (B1 & B2) and drill 1/8” or 9/64” pilot holes (about 3) between the pencil marks on the Base (A). Then, run a ribbon of Titebond Quick & Thick between the pencil marks along the edge of the Base (A) 3.Place the Sides (B1 & B2) on the Base (A) and clamp them in place while the glue dries 4.While the glue is drying, go ahead and insert the SPAX #8 1 1/2" screws through the Base (A) into the Sides (B1 & B2) and remove the clamps after the screws have been set

7

Building the Bucket - 4

Installing the Back (C) 1.Dry fit the Back (C) and lightly mark the positions of the Sides (B1 & B2) with pencil marks along the bottom of the Back (C) and where the Back meets the Sides (B1 & B2). The Back will rest against the ends of the Sides not between them 2.Remove the Back (C) and drill 1/8” or 9/64” pilot holes (about 3) on each side of the Back (C). Then, run a ribbon of Titebond Quick & Thick between the pencil marks and the edges 3.Place the Back (C) in place and clamp it in place while the glue dries 4.While the glue is drying, go ahead and insert the SPAX #8 1 1/2" screws through the Back(C) into the Sides (B1 & B2) and remove the clamps after the screws have been set

8

Building the Bucket - 5

Installing the Front (D) 1.Dry fit the Front (D) and lightly mark the positions of the corners to align with the angle of the Sides. The Front (D) will fit rest against the ends of Sides (B1 & B2) 2.Drill 1/8” or 9/64” pilot holes down the side of the Sides (B1 & B2) where they will connect to the Front (D) 3.Remove the Front (D) and run a ribbon of Titebond Quick & Thick between the pencil mark and the edge of the Front (D) 4.Place the Front (H) in place and clamp it in place while the glue dries. While the glue is drying, go ahead and insert the SPAX #8 1 1/2" screws through the Sides (B1 & B2) into the Front (D) and remove the clamps after the screws have been set

9

Installing the Handles (E)

1. Align the Handles (E) so they are 2” from each back corner. The front end of the Handles should be 4” from each edge. 2. Lightly mark the outline of the Handles along the bottom of the Bucket. 3. Drill 1/8” or 9/64” holes through the Bottom within the outline you made of the Handles. 4-6 spaced holes should suffice. 4. Apply wood glue inside the lines you marked for the Handles and clamp the Handles in place for about 30 minutes. 5. Once the glue has had a chance to set, turn the frame over so the Handles are laying on your worktable. 6. Drive 1 3/4" screws through the bottom panel into the handles.

10

Installing the Handles (E) - 2

4.Apply wood glue inside the lines you marked for the Handles and either clamp the Handles in place or place a board across them and weigh it down to keep the Handles in place for about 30 minutes while the glue sets 5.Once the glue has had a chance to set, turn the frame over so the Handles are resting on your worktable 6.Drive the screws through the Bottom (A) into the Handles (E1 & E2)

11

Installing the Legs (F) - 1

1.Fit a 2”x2”x8” piece to each handle (E). you can adjust the length of the Legs (F) to a length of your choice 2.Once the Legs are positioned, lightly mark the outline of the Legs on the Bottom (A) and the Handles (E) 3.Place the Wheelbarrow on a flat surface and with piece of 1”x2” lumber, rest it flat on the surface but against each Leg. If you have a measurement device to determine the angle, use it for a more accurate finding. 4.Mark the angle on each Leg (should be at 20-degrees)

12

Installing the Legs (F) - 2

5.Remove the clamps and cut the angle on both Legs (F1 & F2) 6.Drill 1/8” or 9/64” hole through the center of each outline 7.Apply wood glue inside the lines on the bottom of the Bucket (A) and on the Handles (E) and then clamp the Legs (F) to the Handles. Keep the clamps in place for about 30 minutes 8.Once the glue has had a chance to set, drive a 1“screw through the Bottom panel into the Legs and then drive a 1 ½” screw through each Handle into each Leg

13

Mark Position of the Axle

1.Insert a 3/4” x 8” Dowel through the Hole (H) in Wheel (G) and lay the Dowel on the Handles (E1 & E2), ensuring that the Dowel rests on both Handles, position the Dowel & Wheel (G) where you want the wheel to be affixed 2.Lightly mark the location of the Dowel on the Handles (E1&E2) 3.Using a square, draw a line from the Dowel marking down the sides of both Handles (E1&E2) 4.Mark the center point of the line on the side of the Handles (D1&D2) where the hole will be drilled for the Carriage Bolt or Dowel. 5.IF the Wheel (G) is not going to rotate, position the Dowel so that it is flush with the Handle on one end, and overhanging the other Handle. Mark the excess for cutting

14

Drill Holes in Handles (E1&E2)

Step 7A 1.Put a dab of Titebond Quick & Thick on 3/8" washers and place the washers on the Wheel (G) at the hole. Doing this now will eliminate you trying to get washers between the Handles (E1&E2) and the Wheel (G) in the next step 2.Drill a 3/8" hole into both Handles (E1&E2) at the marks you made in the Handles in the previous step

15

Install Wheel - 1

3.Place 3/8" washers on a 4" Carriage Bolt and push it up to the Hex end of the bolt 4.Insert the 4" Carriage Bolt through hole in Handle (E1), install a 3/8"washer, then push the Carriage Bolt through the Hole (H) in Wheel (G), then through Handle (E2), adding the final 3/8" washer 5.Place a washer on the Bolt and install the 3/8"Nut. Tighten, but not so tight the wheel does not rotate easily

16

Install Wheel (G) - 2

OR – If the wheel is going to be permanent and not rotate Step 7B 1.Cut the Dowel where it overhangs the Handle with an Oscillating Tool if you have one. If not, remove the Dowel completely, and cut it with a hand saw. 2.If the Dowel was removed, re-insert it through Handle (E1), through the Hole in Wheel (G), and then through Handle (E2) until one end of the Dowel comes through the Handle 3.It should be a tight fit, but if you want to ensure the Dowel does not move, as you push the Dowel through the Wheel (G), apply a few dabs of Titebond Quick & Thick on the Dowel and continue to push it all the way through till it is flush with the other Handle

17

Addition to Step 5

9. Push the Dowel back from the Handle and apply wood glue to the opening. Push the Dowel back into the hole and repeat this step for the other side. Notes: Do not apply glue to the Dowel inside the Wheel or the Wheel will not TURN! Alternative – use an 8” carriage bolt, washers, and nut to attach the Wheel.

18

Addition to Step 4

Tip for the angle: 1. Clamp the legs (F) to the handles (E) such that one corner of the leg is aligned flush with the back of the Bottom (A). 2. Verify the angle (should be at 20 degrees. Hint – With the Legs (F) clamped to the Handles (E), rest the wheelbarrow on a flat piece of wood or the ground. Take a small piece of scrap wood and hold it against the Leg (F) and mark the angle on the scrap wood. This gives you a better idea of the angle if you do not have an angle gauge to determine it.

19

Apply Stain & Protectant - 1

1.If all the wood was treated with MINWAX Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner you can proceed to the next step. If not, apply a coat of the Conditioner and let dry, before you stain the lumber. 2.Apply at least 2 coats of MINWAX PolyShades in a color of your choice allowing the coating to dry before applying a second coating. 3.Even though PolyShades has a polyurethane base, it is not enough (I found out) to protect the wood in adverse weather conditions like we get here in the Northeast. For that reason, it is strongly suggested, that you apply at least 2 coats of MINWAX Helmsman Spar Urethane Gloss or Satin.

20

Comments

Important Note: The Pre-Stain and the PolyShades are not meant for outdoor use. If you want to protect your Wheelbarrow, you must coat with Helmsman Spar or a Urethane that is designed for outdoor use TIPs – Foam Brushes You can use the foam brushes for the stain and protectant and then throw them away when done or, you can clean them with turpentine for use again. If you use foam brushes, after you are done, separate the handle from the foam and keep the handles. The 1” brush has a 7/16”-1/2” handle while the 2” and 3” brushes have a 1/2"-9/16” handle. You will likely have use for those handles some other time for another project

21

Drill Weep Holes - 1

Weep holes are an important part of this build. Water will remain in the bucket at the front because of the angle. Without a means for the water to disperse, the wood will likely rot. I used a 7/16” drill bit because I had a plastic drinking straw that was 7/16” in diameter. Drill 3 weep holes (left, center, and right) into the front of the bucket with a downward angle where the Front (D) meets the Base (A).

22

Drill Weep Holes - 2

1.Drill 3 weep holes at an angle where the Front (D) panel meets the Base (A) 2.Cut a 3” piece off the drinking straw and place it on the end of a 20D nail sliding it up to the head of the nail. 3.Gently push the nail & straw through the hole from the inside the Base (A) 4.If it does not go through the hole without the straw crinkling, use the drill bit to slightly widen the hole and try again. 5.Once you get it through the hole, and it is snug, leave about 1/8” to 1/4"of the straw sticking out the bottom of the Base (A) so drainage goes away from the bucket. That’s why you make the holes on an angle. Be sure to cut the straw on the inside of the bucket flush with the wood frame using a box cutter or razor knife.

23

Cut & Install ½ Corner Bracket

To protect the Leg bottoms, attach a corner bracket to the bottom of each Leg (F1&F2). You can use the complete corner bracket, wrapping it around the Leg, or you can cut it in half 1.Cut the corner bracket in half (at the bend) with a Dremel Tool 2.Affix half of the bracket to the bottom of each Leg (F1&F2) using SPAX #6 1 1/2" screws

Tools Used:

Materials Required:

Wood Products:

(1) 1x8, 48", Board  
(1) 1x6, 24", Board  
(1) 1/2" Thick, 24" x 24", Plywood  
(1) 3/8", 12", Dowel  
(1) 2x2, 96", Board  
(1) 2x6, 12", Board  
(1) 2x2, 96", Board  
(1) 2x6, 6", Board  

Hardware/Supplies:

(1) SPAX #6 1 1/2" Screws (box)  
(1) SPAX #8 1 1/2" Dcrews (box)  
(1) SPAX #8 2 2 1/2" Screws (box)  
(1) TiteBobd Quick & Thick Wood Glue  
(1) MinWax PreStain Wood Conditioner (Quart)  
(1) MinWax PolyShade- select a color (Quart)  
(2) Paint Brushes (the foam kind work best)  
(1) 8" Carriage Bold, Nut, and Washers (unless you use the dowel)  
(2) #2 Pencils  
(1) 7/16" Diameter @ 4" Plastic Straw  

Parts/Cut List:

(1) A = Bottom (Base), 1/2" x 12" x 13"  
(2) B = Sides, 1" x 8" X 12"  
(1) C = Back, 1" x 8" X 12 1/2"  
(1) D = Front, 1" x 6" x 12 1/2"  
(2) E = Handles, 2" x 2" x 32"  
(2) F = Legs, 2" x 2" x 6-8"  
(1) G = Wheel, 2" x 6" x 4"  
(1) H = Axle, 3/8" x 8-10"  

Extras:

Small Wooden Garden Wheelbarrow (ASB 2018-1207) PWS.pdf Download

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