Raised Cedar planters box

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rjveteran added on 11/26/2017

Raised cedar planters box. This is a centre (Yes, Canadians spell it this way) piece for your back garden.
PLEASE READ STEP 26 FIRST.

Directions

Follow the steps below to complete this project.

1

Upper and lower frame.

PLEASE READ STEP 26 BEFORE YOU START! Cut 4 pcs at 2x4x57 7/8" for top and bottom frame both front and rear. Cut 4 pcs 2x4x18 1/2" for top and bottom sides. Fasten 2, 2 1/2" screws into the face of the 2x4x57 7/8" (Both left and right side) to the end of 2x4x18 1/2". As shown. Continue this until you have a rectangular box. The box should measure 58 7/8 x 21 1/2 once assembled Ensure the 2x4x18 1/2" is located in middle of the 2x4x57 7/8" so that the measurements work. Repeat this step for the lower frame.

2

Upper & Lower Complete

You now should have 2 frames identical. Label one "Upper" and the other "Lower" again, 57 7/8" long x 21 1/2" wide.

3

#1 Bed arms.

Cut 4, 2x6x20 1/2". Using bottom frame, fasten 2, 2x6x20 1/2"to the inside end of the frame using 3, 2 1/2" screws. The spacing of the 2x6's within the 18" cavity is 1" from end, the 2x6, then 3" space, then 2x6, then 1" remaining. So to clarify, at the end of the frame, you have a 18 1/2" gap. you'll have a 1" space, then the 2x6, then a 3" space, then another 2x6, then the remaining 1".

4

2nd set bed arms.

Repeat the same procedure for the other end of the frame with 2x6x20 1/2". Again, 3 2 1/2" screws per 2x6.

5

Bed table top

Cut 2, 2x6x56" to rest on the top of the bed arms. Like a bench. There should be 1 3/4" overhang on each end. Fasten to arms with 3, 2 1/2" screws.

6

2nd table top 2x6

Repeat step 5 with the second table top 2x6 fastened with 3, 2 1/2" screws, as shown in photo. Remember to have 1 3/4" overhang on both sides.

7

Preparing Frames for 1x6 facing.

Lay top and bottom frame on the ground evenly spaced 33 1/2". From outside of 2x4 upper frame to outside 2x4 bottom frame should be 33 1/2". Because of the uneven weight of the bottom Frame due to the table top, set a 2x6 spare chunk underneath so it stays secure. As shown. So to clarify, the structure should be 33 1/2" from outside top frame to outside bottom frame.

8

Fastening 1x6 facing.

Cut 30, 1x6x33" boards. Place the first 1x6 on the left of the frame. You should have a 1/2" grace on top and bottom total. This will be covered so it is not important to be completely even. Your first board should have a 5/8" overhang to the left. Hold a 1x6 running down the side to ensure the measurement and so that it is flush. This is the front. So you don't want to see the end of the side 1x6 showing. Just the face of the 1x6's on the front and back.

9

Nailing the facing.

Once the 1x6 is flush with side wall 1x6 (5/8") fasten the 1x6 to the 2x4's top and bottom frame with your Bostich 1 3/4" nailer. 2 in the top, 2 in the bottom, 1" from the ends so they can be hidden in further step. Again, the top and/or bottom of 1x6 will not be flush with top and bottom frame. There should be a 1/2" total grace. This imperfection will be hidden by a further step in the build.

10

Continuing The nailing in sequence.

Now that the pilot 1x6 is nailed. Continue the sequence with following 1x6's snug to one another and nails to be 1" from each end.

11

Completing the facing for front.

Once all 11, 1x6x33" are in place, you should be perfect with 5/8" overhang on the left and right side of the front. So you should have a 5/8 overhang on each end.

12

Back Facing.

Carefully flip the structure over on to the front. (The facing you just completed) Again, with a "dummy" 1x6 scrap, place it at the side of the structure to allow you to place the 1x6 flush on the face. Nail into place and follow same as the front with 2 nails in top, 2 in bottom. Nails should be 1" from top and bottom so that they can be hidden in further step.

13

Complete back facing.

With the 1x6's snug to one another continue the nailing until once again you will have 5/8" overhang on each side.

14

Side facing

Flip planters box on it's bottom, standing up straight. On each side of the box, 4, 1x6x33 should fit snug on each side. Fasten 1x6x33 with Bostich 1 3/4" Nailer. 2 in the top, 2 in the bottom. 1" from the ends so they can also be hidden in further steps.

15

Bottom footing

Once walls are complete, flip the box over so it is upside down. (where the table top 2x6's are closer to the ground) Now its time to put the footing on using mitre cuts. Each cut shall be measured outside tip to outside tip. (Longest points) Mitre 2 pieces of 2x6x27 3/16" Mitre 2 pieces of 2x6x63 1/2" Adjust one of the 63 1/2" 2x6's resting on the 2x4 frame. Ensure that there is a 2 1/4" overhang away from the facing at the two ends and along the front. Fasten the 2x6's matching up the mitres firstly with just 2 screws per 2x6 not completely in. Just to gage proper measurements. Again, there should be 2 1/4" overhang all around the 2x6's

16

Screwing in footing

Once you have placed the 2x6's evenly all around at 2 1/4" overhang, you can fasten the pilot screws completely in. There should be 9 screws on the long ends evenly spaced, and 4 screws on the short sides evenly spaced.

17

Top Facing

Once the bottom footing is completed with a 2 1/4" overhang consistently all around, flip the box over onto its footing. Mitre deck boards (5/4x6) to the same measurements as the 2x6's. The long front and back are 63 1/2" from tip to tip. the shorter sides are 27 3/16". Again, placing them 2 1/4" overhang from the facing all around. Start pilot driving 2 screws in each deckboard to adjust for the 2 1/4" overhang. Once in place and you are satisfied with the overhang and it looks good all around, complete the pilot screws. and put all screws in. Same as the bottom footing, 9 screws in the long ends and 4 in the short end. Run them just below flush so you are able to sand the top without the screws getting in the way.

18

18 gage brad nailer

With the brad nailer, tack 1 1/2" nails in the ends of each side to make them smooth and flush. You may have to manipulate either board to make them flush before you tack them.

19

Bed bottom/table top

Cut 11, 1x6x21 1/4". Place them snug side by side along the inside of the box. At the end you will have to rip a 1x6 to make it fit the last spot. Nail them evenly to the 2x6 table tops underneath. 4 nails each board. I went 4 inches in from each end.

20

Capping

Set your table saw at 2 3/4" to rip 2, 5/4x6x96". The half that is 2 3/4" is your "Bottom" capping. The remaining ripped 5/4 board (Should be about 2 1/2") is your top capping.

21

Capping Bottom

For capping the bottom, mitre 2 pcs of 5/4x2 3/4x61 1/4" Fasten it to the bottom front of the box using 2 1/2" screws IMPORTANT: Flat (Cut) side facing down. Then mitre 2 pcs of 5/4x6x24 7/8". Marry one of the 24 7/8 pieces to the 61 1/4 pieces. Ensure they are aligned properly and screw them in. Carry this on with the other 2 pieces remaining.

22

Complete screws on bottom cap

Evenly space crews in the capping once all 4 pieces are in place. 3 screws in 24 7/8" sides and 5 screws in long sides.

23

Top capping

IMPORTANT: when fastening the top cap, ensure the flat (cut) side is facing upward. Other than the cut side facing up, everything is similar to the last step, only its at the top. 2 pcs of 5/4x2 1/2x61 1/4" and 2 pcs of 5/4x2 1/2x24 7/8". All 4 pcs mitred to fit.

24

Evenly space final screws

Match up the screws on the top capping by eye from the bottom capping to make it uniform.

25

Enjoy!

I hope you have found making this with little trouble. Making plans is a lot harder than I thought. Hopefully everyone who attempts this hasn't had too much trouble. Thanks, RJ

26

Explanation

First. 1x6x6 actual size may vary. Home Depot's is 5 3/8" wide. If your 1x6x6 is a different size, multiply that size by 11 and that will be your upper & lower lengths complete Hi there, I am a disabled Army Veteran. I do novice woodworking for therapy. I've built bird houses, planters boxes and several projects off of this site. Another Veteran friend of mine introduced me to this site and I have found great interest as it is good therapy for me and distracts me from PTSD. I have done my best explaining this project in great detail. I found it much harder than I thought. If something doesn't make sense or is too difficult to understand, Please put in comments and I will try and fix the error immediately. Thanks very much! RJ

Tools Used:

Materials Required:

Wood Products:

(8) 2x6, 96", Board  
(4) 2x4, 96", Board  
(20) 1x6, 72", Board  
(4) 5/4 x 6 deckboard, 96", Board  

Hardware/Supplies:

(150) 3" Cedar coloured deck screws  
(170) 1 3/4" Fence nails  
(8) 18 Gage 1 1/2" brad nails  

Parts/Cut List:

(4) Front and rear, top and bottom frame, 2x4x57 7/8"  
(4) Side frame, 2x4x18 1/2"  
(4) Bed support arms, 2x6x20 1/2"  
(2) Table top bed, 2x6x56"  
(30) Facing boards, 1x6x33"  
(2) front and back footings, 2x6x63 1/2"  
(2) Side footings, 2x6x27 3/16"  
(2) Top facing front and back, 5/4x6x63 1/2"  
(2) Top facing sides, 5/4x6x27 3/16"  
(11) Bed bottom/ table top, 1x6x21 1/4"  
(2) Bottom capping front and back, 5/4x2 3/4x61"  
(2) Bottom side capping, 5/4x2 3/4x24 7/8"  
(2) Top front and back capping, 5/4x2 1/2x61"  
(2) Top side capping, 5/4x2 1/2x24 7/8"  

Extras:

No extra details have been uploaded.  

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