Model H Garden Table (Imperial and Metric)

 Write Review

kris (clever woodworks) added on 6/10/2020

This is my easy DIY garden table that I am dedicating to fathers day as I named it after my son. Though this is a cheap outdoor table to build it is unique and sturdy to stand for a long time that makes use of rough sawn timber.

Directions

Follow the steps below to complete this project.

1

Make it manageable

The first few steps are for making rough-cut timber into a good squared source of wood. This project could be made from 1x2 and 1x3s if you chose to do so. if you do not have a miter saw add 1cm or 3/8 of an inch to all of the cut list to help make the boards more manageable and user friendly

2

Initial jointing

Using a jointer jig run all of the boards to create a smooth workable edge that you can use to maintain a uniform width when cutting the boards down further to their initial cut diminisions The jig build can be found in extras

3

Making parallel edges

After all of the boards have had the initial cut, it is time to square all of the edges by using the edge jointing jig again. If the board does not extend over the jig, use another board alongside it to extend it over the edge to obtain the first 90-degree edge; afterwards, run the other side through the table saw so that you will have two parallel edges.

4

Making parallel faces

After you have two parallel edges cut one face of the board with any cupping facing the fence

5

Find the thinnest board

Find the thinnest board by laying them out on a flat surface and cut all the other sides of the board faces to have two parallel faces

6

The right length

Cut all boards to their required length

7

Make Pocket holes

Drill pocket holes for at least six of the slats and the frame, as you will have plenty of time to drill out the rest when waiting for the glue to set during the slat assembly.

8

A time to sand

Sand the frame and the six slats with a progression from 60, 80, 100 and 180 grit

9

The legs

Assemble the legs (inner, middle and outer) by using a pilot drill bit and a counter sink bit and 35mm (1.38in) screws and wood glue. Assemble the outer to the middle with wood glue and screws then flip over the leg assembly and install inner piece with wood glue and screws. Make use of a scrap piece of timber so that the base of the leg can be butted up to so that the bottoms of all of the leg pieces are uniform. Note that you can adjust the leg height, I made this for myself and I am 6'4"

10

Smooth out your legs

Sand all legs with 60, 80 and 100 grit. Then fill in the countersunk holes with wood filler and sand to 180 grit

11

Start to assemble

Assemble one side of the frame so that one side of the frame is open. Ensure that the frame is flat to the work surface and the frame is ninety degrees

12

Mount the legs 1

Spread glue on all surfaces that will come in contact with the frame and mount in the corner of the frame.

13

Mount the legs 2

Use a pilot hole and countersink bit while avoiding the pocket holes to achieve the maximum grip possible with the 35 mm screws

14

Slat insulation

Install the first slat with wood glue on all contact points and with the use of a clamp to hold in the slat while using pocket hole screws to secure it. Install plugs in the pocket holes with wood glue to conceal the holes then wait 15 to 20 minutes to cut flush to the slat and sand. During 15 minutes time sand and drill the other pocket holes and sanding for the table

15

The sequence

For all future slat assembly use a spacer to maintain a 15mm gap between the boards. following the process of placing the spacer and then the slat with glue on the end contact points, screwing in the pocket hole screws, placing in the plugs, waiting for the glue to set, saw and sand flush and repeat until the last slat is used. Ensure that the slats are flush with the frame runners.

16

30 slats later

Install the other two legs by placing glue on all contact points and use a pilot and countersink bit with the 35mm screws avoiding the pocket holes. Gently put the table on its legs, then use a spirit level to ensure that the legs are at ninety degrees Install the last part of the frame with wood glue on all contact points Cut off the excess of the runners and sand down those areas and the 1mm that should be sticking up from the middle board of the legs

17

Treatment

Coat with wood preserver and finish according to directions

Tools Used:

Materials Required:

Wood Products:

(3) 1x6, 189", Rough sawn board  

Hardware/Supplies:

(76) 1.5 inch/35mm wood screws  
(132) 32mm /1.25in course pocket hole screws  

Parts/Cut List:

(30) Slats, 18x40x680mm (.70x1.57x26.77in)  
(2) End frame runner, 20x70x680mm (.78x2.75x26.77in)  
(2) Side frame runner, 20x70x1140mm (.78x.275x44.88in)  
(4) Inner leg pieces, 18x40x719mm (.70x2.75x28.3in)  
(4) Outer leg pieces, 18x40x749mm (.70x2.75x29.48in)  
(4) Middle leg pieces, 18x40x790mm (.70x2.75x31.10in)  

Extras:

https://sites.google.com/view/cleverwoodworks/plans Visit
https://bit.ly/2zo5GQf Visit
https://youtu.be/73HKiEUg1ek Visit
https://youtu.be/d9iXOllS0lo Visit

Discussion

You must log in to add comments

Login

    Become a Member

    Explore

    • Connect with the BuildSomething Community
    • See what others build and share your stories

    Contribute

    • Find inspiring ideas for your projects you can build
    • Get the step-by-step plans you need to succeed

    Share

    • Turn your projects into professional-looking plans
    • Share your plans you create on buildsomething.com

    OR

    CONNECT USING

    Already a member?
    Sign in!

    Kreg Tool