Garden Wheelbarrow (06/28/19 added contact)

 Write Review

aborack@gmail.com added on 1/3/2018

This is a garden wheelbarrow that was morphed from quite a few examples found on the Internet. It took several hours to assemble and requires the use of both power tools (saws, saw accessories, drills, etc.) and non-power tools (angle finder, clamps, etc.).

I recommend you review the complete PDF

Directions

Follow the steps below to complete this project.

1

Notice

This document was first released in January 2018 and since that time, I have made some modifications, added a few items, and corrected some others. The weather conditions here in the Northeast (harsh winter, hot summer) had an affect on the Wheelbarrow such that the original coating using a combination stain & urethane didn’t hold up well. I decided during the repair process, to: (1) use a marine Spar Urethane over the coating of stain (2) adjust the wheel so it turns (3) replace the 1/4" straws inside the weep holes with a 7/16” straw to drain better (4) add weather stripping to the wheel (5) make some minor changes or additions to the write-up and diagrams

2

The Sides (B)

IN THE DIAGRAM OF THE SIDES, YOU CUT THE 2 SIDE COMPONENTS FROM 1×10 BOARDS. 1. CUT 2 PIECES OF THE 1X10 TO A LENGTH OF 24” 2. MARK THE CUT LINES ON FRONT OF EACH PIECE TO SHOW THE ANGLE. 3. WITH A TABLE/CIRCULAR SAW, CUT A 45-DEGREE ANGLE FROM THE FRONT PIECE AS SHOWN BY THE DASHED LINES AT THE BOTTOM OF THE SIDE. 4. WITH A JIGSAW CUT THE ROUNDED EDGE TO FINISH THE FRONT AS SHOWN BY THE DASHED LINES ON THE TOP OF THE SIDE.

3

Building the Wheelbarrow Bucket - 1

INSTALLING THE SIDES (B1 & B2) 1. Dry fit the Sides (B1 & B2) to the Base (A) and lightly mark their position by making a mark along the inside 2. Remove the Sides (B1 & B2) and drill 1/8” or 9/64” pilot holes (about 3) between the pencil marks on the Base (A). Then, run a ribbon of Titebond Quick & Thick between the pencil marks along the edge of the Base (A) 3. Place the Sides (B1 & B2) on the Base (A) and clamp them in place while the glue dries. While the glue is drying, go ahead and insert the SPAX #8 1 1/2" screws through the Base (A) into the Sides (B1 & B2) and remove the clamps after the screws have been set

4

Building the Wheelbarrow Bucket - 2

INSTALLING THE BACK (C) 1.Dry fit the Back (C) and lightly mark the positions of the corners to align with the 8 degree angle on the bottom of the Sides (B1 & B2). The Back will rest against the Sides not between them. 2.Remove the Back (C) and with the table saw/circular saw, trim the Back so it will be flush with the Sides when reinstalled. 3.Drill 1/8” or 9/64” pilot holes (about 3) on each side of the Back (C). Then, run a ribbon of Titebond Quick & Thick between the pencil marks and the edges 4.Place the Back (C) in place and clamp it in place while the glue dries. While the glue is drying, go ahead and insert the SPAX #8 1 1/2" screws through the Back (C) into the Sides (B1 & B2) and remove the clamps after the screws have been set

5

Building the Wheelbarrow Bucket - 3

INSTALLING THE FRONT (H) 1.Dry fit the Front (H) and lightly mark the positions of the corners to align with the 80 angles of the Sides. The Front (H) will fit between the ends of Sides (B1 & B2) 2.Remove the Front (H) and with the table saw/circular saw, trim the Front so it will be flush with the Sides when reinstalled 3.Drill 1/8” or 9/64” pilot holes down the side of the Sides (B1 & B2) where they will connect to the Front (H) 4.Remove the Front (H) and run a ribbon of Titebond Quick & Thick between the pencil mark and the edge of the Front (H)

6

Building the Wheelbarrow Bucket - 4

5.Place the Front (H) in place and clamp it in place while the glue dries. While the glue is drying, go ahead and insert the SPAX #8 1 1/2" screws through the Sides (B1 & B2) into the Front (H) and remove the clamps after the screws have been set.

7

Making the Wheel

1.Draw a 6” circle on a 2” x 8” x 8” piece of wood using a standard school compass to outline Wheel (E). If you don’t have a 2”x8” piece of wood, you can use a 1”x8”, cutting out 2 circles and using Titebond Quick & Thick and a ribbon of 1 1/2" nails (finishing or brads) to secure it 2.Drill a 1/2” hole through the center of the outline of Wheel (E) for the 1/2" Bolt 3.Cut out the circle using a jig saw and sand down the edges to ensure roundness

8

Installing the Handles (D)

1. Align the handles (D) so they are 2” from each back corner of the Base (A). The front end of the handles should be 4” from each edge. 2. Lightly mark the outline of the handles along the bottom of the Base (bucket). 3. Drill 1/8” or 9/64” holes through the bottom within the outline you made of the handles (D). 4-6 spaced holes should suffice. 4. Apply a ribbon of Titebond wood glue inside the lines you marked for the handles and clamp the handles in place for about 30 minutes. 5. Once the glue has set, turn the frame over so the handles are laying on your worktable. 6. From inside the corners of the bucket, drive #8 2” screws through the Bottom panel (A) into each Handle (D).

9

Installing the Legs (G1 & G2) - 1

1.Dry fit a 2x2 10″ piece of lumber to each Handle (D1 & D2) as show in the diagram 2.Clamp the Legs (G1 & G2) to the Handles (D1 & D2) such that one corner of the Legs is aligned flush with the Back (C) and the Base (A) and against Handle (D1 & D2) 3.Lightly mark the outline of the Legs (G1 & G2) on the bottom of the bucket and on the Handles (D1 & D2) 4.Remove the clamps and drill a 1/8” or 9/64” hole through the center of each outline on the Base (A)

10

Installing the Legs (G1 & G2) -2

5.Cut a 20 degree angle on one end of each Leg using your table saw/circular saw so that the Legs rest flat on the ground. 6.Apply a ribbon of Titebond Quick & Thick inside the lines you marked for the Legs (G1&G2) and reapply the clamp for about 30 minutes 7.From inside the corners of the bucket, drive a #8 1 1/2"” screw through the Base (A) into each Leg (G1 & G2) 8.Drive a #10 3 1/2" screw through each Handle (D1 & D2) into each Leg (G1 & G2)

11

Mark Position of Axel

1.Insert a 1/2” x 10” Dowel through the Hole you drilled previously into the Wheel (E) for the Axle (F)and lay it across the Handles (D1 & D2), positioning it where you want the Wheel (E) to be affixed as show in the diagram 2.Lightly mark the location of the Dowel on the Handles (D1 & D2) 3.Using a square, draw a line from the Dowel marking down the sides of both Handles (D1 & D2) 4.Mark the center point of the line on the side of the Handles (D1 & D2) where the hole will be drilled for the Carriage Bolt 5.Put a dab of Titebond Quick & Thick on 1/2" washers and place the washers on the Wheel (E) at the hole. Doing this now will eliminate you trying to get washers between the Handles (D1 & D2) and the Wheel (E) in the next step

12

Drill Holes in Handles - 1

STEP 7A 1.Drill a 1/2” hole into both Handles (D1 & D2) 2.Place 1/2" washers on a 5 1/2" Carriage Bolt and push it up to the Hex end of the bolt 3.Insert the 5 1/2" Carriage Bolt through hole in Handle (D1), install a 1/2" washer, then push the Carriage Bolt through the Hole (F) in Wheel (E), then through Handle (D2), adding the final 1/2" washer 4.Place a washer on the Bolt and install the 1/2" Nut. Tighten, but not so tight the wheel does not rotate easily

13

Drill Holes in Handles - 2

OR – If the wheel is going to be permanent and not rotate STEP 7B 1.Insert the Dowel through Handle (D1), through the Hole in Wheel (E), and then through Handle (D2) until one end of the Dowel comes through the Handle (D2) 2.Trim off any excess dowel 3.Remove the Dowel completely apply wood glue to the opening in the Handles D1 & D2), and inside the Hole in Wheel (E) 4.Insert the Dowel back into the Handles D1 & D2), and Wheel (E)

14

Drill Weep Holes - 1

Weep holes are an important part of this build. Water will remain in the bucket at the front because of the angle. Without a means for the water to disperse, the wood will likely rot. I used a 7/16” drill bit because I had a plastic drinking straw that was 7/16” in diameter. Drill 3 weep holes (left, center, and right) into the front of the bucket with a downward angle where the Front (C) meets the Base (A). 1.Drill 3 weep holes at an angle where the Front (C) panel meets the Base (A) 2.Cut a 3” piece off the drinking straw and place it on the end of a 20D nail sliding it up to the head of the nail

15

Drill Weep Holes - 2

3.Gently push the nail & straw through the hole from the inside the Base (A) 4.If it does not go through the hole without the straw crinkling, use the drill bit to slightly widen the hole and try again 5.Once you get it through the hole, and it is snug, leave about 1/8” to 1/4"of the straw sticking out the bottom of the Base (A) so drainage goes away from the bucket. That’s why you make the holes on an angle. Be sure to cut the straw on the inside of the bucket flush with the wood frame using a box cutter or razor knife

16

Apply Stain & Protectant

Tip: Apply several coats of stain or paint to enhance the look of the outdoor storage box and to protect the components from decay. Alan’s TIPs (after wheelbarrow is painted/stained): Drill at least 3 weep holes into the front of the bucket where the front panel (C) meets the bottom (A) using a 7/32 or 13/64” drill bit. You also need a plastic drinking straw, and a 20D 4” common nail.

17

Protecting the Legs (G)

o protect the leg bottoms, attach a piece of metal to the bottom. Steps: 1. Cut the corner bracket in half (at the bend). 2. affix a half to the bracket to the bottom of each Leg (G) using SPAX #6 1 1/2" screws.

18

Optional - Protect the Wheel

1.Cut a length of Frost King 9/16” wide self-stick weather seal and place it around the outside diameter of the wheel. 2.Nail 1”-1 1/2” nails around the Wheel (E) about 6-8” apart to ensure the weather-stripping remains on the wheel after exposure to the elements

Tools Used:

Materials Required:

Wood Products:

(1) 2x2, 96", Board  
(1) 1x10, 48", Board  
(1) 1x8, 36", Board  
(1) 2x8, 12", Board  
(1) wood dowel, 8", dowel  
(1) 2x2, 24", Board  

Hardware/Supplies:

(1) Box of SPAX 1 3/4" screws  
(1) Box of SPAX 2 or 2 1/2" screws  
(1) Bottle of TiteBond glue  
(1) Pint MinWax PreStain Wood Conditioner  
(1) Pint - MinWax PolyShades (your choice of color)  
(1) Bracket (for legs)  
(1) Frost King Weather Stripping  
(1) Tektron Center Punch  

Parts/Cut List:

(2) Sides (B1 & B2), 21"  
(1) Back (C), 14 1/2"  
(1) Base (bottom) (A), 16" x 20"  
(1) Wheel (E), 6" round  
(2) Handles (D1 & D2), 48"  
(2) Legs (G1 & G2), 10-12"  
(1) Front (H), 14 1/2  

Extras:

No extra details have been uploaded.  

Discussion

You must log in to add comments

Login

    Become a Member

    Explore

    • Connect with the BuildSomething Community
    • See what others build and share your stories

    Contribute

    • Find inspiring ideas for your projects you can build
    • Get the step-by-step plans you need to succeed

    Share

    • Turn your projects into professional-looking plans
    • Share your plans you create on buildsomething.com

    OR

    CONNECT USING

    Already a member?
    Sign in!

    Kreg Tool